Week Night Reversible Dress

I have been wanting to make Claire this reversible Candy Stripes dress for about 3 months now. Ever since I got [amazon-product text="Absolutely A-Line:1 Easy Pattern = 26 Adorable Dresses for Girls" type="text"]1600593771[/amazon-product]  But I kept putting it off. I don’t have the time to sit down a make a dress in one shot. Finally,I decided it would just have to start. Eventually I figured out how I could get it done in the evenings a little bit at a time.

I don’t really like lining dresses. It seems like a lot of work to make a lining that nobody sees,so I prefer making a reversible dress with the inner dress (what would be the lining) 2-3 inches longer than the panel dress. I had some of the fabric left over from the skirt we made Claire in January. I needed a little more fabric,so I bought a pack of pillow cases a Target.  Now that we have our fabric,let’s get started…

First Night

Pick your pattern and design:First wash your fabrics. They are all going on the same dress,so if you can not wash them all together in one load,you’ve got a problem!

While the fabric is washing,make your pattern. Choose a single pattern (I used the Absolutely A-line front pattern) for both the front and back panels of the dress. I always make a muslin copy of a pattern,instead of cutting the paper pattern. That way I can also make any adjustments,like using a size 3 for the width and a size 5 for the length. I use wax paper that you place face down over the folded muslin then pin the pattern on top of all the layers. Then you just trace with a pencil or wheel over the pattern you want. The wax transfers to the muslin and I then cut out the muslin. I fold the muslin,so that I have one complete front panel for a pattern. That way I can hold it up to Claire and make sure it will fit and adjust if necessary. When making a reversible dress I use snaps on the shoulders for a closure instead of a zipper,so I added 1 inch to the shoulders of the pattern. Also,choose the length you want for the longest dress and add 2-3 inches for a wide hem. This pattern has an 1/2 inch seam allowance,which I like because it gives you a lot of room for error. If you do not have a pattern,take a sleeveless dress you like,fold it in half. Then trace by adding a 1/2 inch all the way around the dress. Then add one inch to the shoulder and 2-3 inches to the bottom. There is your pattern. If you want you can make two patterns,one for the shorter dress and one for the longer dress,but I usually use just one pattern and fold up the bottom when cutting the shorter dress.

Switch your fabrics from the washer to the dryer while you work on the design. I already had the design of the Candy Stripes dress from Absolutely A-line. It is basically 5 strips of fabric sewn together (kind of like a quilt) to create one rectangle of pieced fabric (mine ended up a square 24×24). For more details on how to make the Candy Stripes dress,please refer to [amazon-product text="Absolutely A-Line:1 Easy Pattern = 26 Adorable Dresses for Girls" type="text"]1600593771[/amazon-product]You can use use the same design for both dressed if you like,using different fabrics for diversity (CLICK HERE to see pictures of previous reversible dress). For the longer dress,I decided I wanted to use the solid blue,cut out some of the flowers from the floral pattern for the bodice,and place a ribbon of the striped fabric across the bottom seam. I actually drew a few different pictures and placed fabrics here and there to get my final design.

Finally,iron your fabrics. This is very important if you used a dryer,if you line dry it can wait. Make sure you have everything you need to make the dress:correct thread,snaps,applique backing,ribbons,etc. If not,make a list for tomorrow.

Second Night

Cut dress panels and add any details:I am assuming that you have already gathered all the materials you will need before continuing. At this point,I made the two 24×24 inch pieced fabrics for the Candied Striped dress as outlined in Absolutely A-line.  Now its time to cut two panels of each fabric. To cut the panels,fold the fabric with right sides facing each other,making sure to fold the fabric lengthwise (the grain arrow should be parallel to the selvage).  If you made your own pattern,9 times out of 10 the grain line arrow with be going the length of the dress from top to bottom. Place the folded pattern over the folded fabric and cut around the pattern. Since the pattern is for the longer dress, fold up the bottom  until you have the desired length for the shorter dress (don’t forget at least 1 inch for the seam). Repeat the process for cutting out the two panels for the shorter dress. You should now have two panels for each dress. You should also cut out any details you may need. For example,I cut out the flowers I wanted from the floral print for the longer,blue dress and strips of the striped fabric for a boarder along the hem.

Once you have your panels,I like to add whatever details or designs to them that I can before sewing them together. This requires that you think through the process a little,but I find it easier,especially with applique if I am only having to work with half a dress than with a whole dress or even two dresses (if you wait until the very end). You will want to pin everything in place (including a hem) before you sew and details on. Then place the longer dress right sides together,place a panel of the shorter dress on each side of the longer dress,right side facing out,and pin it together at the top. This way you can judge whether or not your stitching and designs for you dresses will show or interfere with one another. It can also help you decide if you should add the details now or wait until later.  It was after I placed the flower cut outs on the blue dress that I realized it looked blah,so I cut out a piece of the striped fabric to go under the floral,framing it and liked it much better. I also decided I would put on the striped fabric after I hemmed the dress.

Add the applique or details to the dress that you think best at this time. I chose to iron on applique the flowers on the bodice. (I wish I had also stitched the edges using the machine at this point,instead of planning on hand stitching it later,but live and learn).

Third Night

Sew the sides of the dresses and hem:Stay stitch (long basing stitch) along the curved edges (arm holes and neck) within the seam allowance (about 1/4 inch). Take the two panels of the longer dress (for me,the blue dress) and pin them right sides together. Sew a straight stitch up the side seam with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. I often find out at this point that I have cut the pieces less than perfect,so I use the “widest”edge as a guide as I sew. I feel like this helps to even out any errors I’ve made in cutting. Repeat for the shorter dress (for me,the Candy Stripes dress).

Try dresses on to make sure they fit. Then cut excess fabric at the seams,but leave enough to easily be ironed down. Iron the seams open. Then hem the bottom of both dresses. Hem the shorter dress first. Begin by,fold the bottom edge up about 1/2 inch and iron it down. Then fold again about 1/2 inch and iron. Pin the hem if necessary before sewing a straight stitch along the edge of the folded fabric.

Place the longer dress inside the shorter dress right sides facing in and determine the desired length of the hem. Remember that you do not want the hem seam to show out from under the shorter dress. 2-3 inches should be fine. Mark the finished hem with a fabric pencil or pin. Remove the longer dress and fold the bottom edge up and iron down (as before). Then fold the fabric again until desired length as marked. Iron down the fold. Pin if necessary before sewing a straight stitch along the edge of the folded fabric.

Note:if you are following my design and placing the striped fabric (or ribbon) over the seam of the blue dress,this is a good time to finish that detail. It is easier to work with one dress than two.

Forth Night

Sew the two dresses together:Turn the shorter dress (for me the Candy Stripes) inside out. Then take the longer dress and put it inside the shorter dress. The right sides of the two dresses should be facing each other. If you have a front and back to your dresses (i.e. applique) the front panel of the longer dress should be facing the back panel of the shorter dress. And the wrong sides of the shorter dress should be facing out.

Then pin the front panel of the shorter dress to the back panel of the longer dress at the neck and arms. Do the same for the other panels. Remember you do not sew the same fabrics together. This is had to explain,so I hope this picture will help.

Then using a straight stitch (1/2 inch seam allowance),sew from one arm hole all the way around the two arms and necks,to sew it all together. This should be one consistent stitch. Leave the needle in and lift the foot as needed to turn corners etc.  Trim any excess seam allowance and clip the edges.

Once that is done,then you turn the dresses right side out using the dull end of a seam ripper to get the straps completely right side out. Now at this point you may end up with two dresses side by side,don’t panic. Just put the one dress back inside the other. One dress should be facing out and one dress should be facing in. Press the dress alone the neck and arm holes. Then top stitch then by using a straight stitch from the bottom of one arm hole all around the edge to finish at the same place. This is the same as before when sewing the dress together,except you are stitching on the outside of the garment. Remember to take your time as this stitching will show.

Fifth Night

This is the night of catch up. If you did not get the top stitching completed or have not finished all the details of your design,this is your chance to finish. The final item is to place two snaps at the ends of each set of straps. I always try to place my snaps to the the front panel is going on top of the back panel (if you do not have a front or back,it does not matter. Another tip I have learned is to place the snaps in an order. This is hard to describe to I will provide this picture. But I always start with the bottom- outside snap (Bottom = the strap going under. Outside = at the arm hole,not the neck). Then mark where the corresponding snap needs to be on the top panel and add it. Then I place the top-inside snap where I think it looks best on the strap and use it to mark where the corresponding snap should go on the bottom panel. MAKE PICTURE OF SNAPS.

And voila you have a very cute dress ready for the weekend!

P.S. I hope this is helpful. I find it very hard to write sewing instructions. It always seems more confusing to me written down. So please let me know if you have any questions or suggestions. Thanks!